Gypsies have wandered and settled here in the past, before penniless poets and writers, and struggling artists came to hang out regularly, lamenting and applauding life and all its multi-faceted glory. The bohemian atmosphere has remained, but nowadays, you can find restaurants, cafes, pubs and night clubs.
In the summer months, the quarter is full of life, colour and activity, with the outdoor terrace scene full to the brim. But I was here in March, the end of winter season so I can forget the promising array of a café terrace spectacle. But because this is eastern Europe, where the outdoor café terrace scene remains a large part of its urban backdrop, you can’t just simply miss it. People here don’t seem to mind sitting outside even if it’s cold, which is one common thing I have noticed in many countries across eastern Europe.
Having said this I just really wanted to visit the place out of curiosity. This is the location of Skardalija on the map of Belgrade:
It is part of the Old Town just across the Republic Square, very near to Kneza Mihaila, the main shopping and café pedestrian of the city and Terazije where I have my hotel. The whole street area is covered in huge cobble stones. The buildings I assume were old and rather plain looking, which is probably the reason why most were painted with architecture reflecting the Bohemian life. Belgrade has been through a lot of wars so the buildings in this area must have been damaged and reconstructed, hence could be another reason why they painted their facades.
I have read that the government has plans of further developing the area so it’s definitely a place to watch!
I was also planning on having a drink here but didn’t find any place worthy of wasting an hour or so. But I have read of a secret bar café called Svetsko udruzenje svetskih putnika (in English its called: Federal Association of Globetrotters). It’s an underground bar café set up in living room style with furnitures that reminds you of Soviet communism days. There is no signage and you have to buzz the doorbell to get in, and it’s supposed to be located just around the corner of Skardalija. So I thought—Maybe I can have coffee here? But helaas, I could not seem to find the building and the buzzer. I even asked a few people and they have no clue. Thumbs up to this bar for truly upholding the secrecy pact!
Nevertheless, the whole finding this secret bar exercise has left me thirsty, but not anymore for coffee. I need a real drink. So I headed off to the Republic Square and settled at Boutique where I ordered a trusted Brazilian cocktail concoction—Caipirinha. I have an hour to chill here before I freshen up and have my dinner.
Here is an interesting Wikipedia read about the history of this quarter in Belgrado: Skardalija
It probably would have been best if I came here in Skardalija in the evening when the dining scene and nightlife attraction sets in, but I had other plans for the evening unfortunately. I have reserved a table at this out-of-this-world avante-garde restaurant in the Vracar neighbourhood. Moreover, I didn’t really fancy a night out. Exposing my fossil ears to today’s hard music and the idea of me dancing and sipping bottomless cocktails with strange men is giving me creepy hallucinations. I am 46, not single and obviously not looking for a quick shag. My interests in life have changed. I just want a peace and quiet evening back at my lovely hotel apartment after dinner.
But for the younger kittens or those who fancy some evening action, do come here at Skardalja.
A traditional Serbian restaurant in Skardalija.
Moi sitting here on a bench in Skardalija. My apologies, I totally forgot to take a selfie here. Alright, I am being sarcastic.
Skadarska street, the main street in Skardalija.
Some people compare Skardalija to Montmartre in Paris.
The buildings are painted in pastel colours with illustrations of buildings and scenes depicting the bohemian lifestyle.
I would not be surprise if this lady is a fashion blogger! =)
The cafes and restaurants here have very outspoken interior design and themes.
You come here for the night clubs, bars, cafes and restaurants in Skardalija.
Having a caipirinha cocktail here at Boutique on the Republic Square.
Travel Period: March 2016
Destination: Skardalija, Old Town/Stari Grad (Belgrade), Serbia
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Happy Travels! Enjoy Life =)
